Pure wool, or wool cut with nylon for wear. We tell you the percentage and what it changes.
Tight twist holds up in a hall. Face weight tells you how much yarn is actually there.
Berber loop, level cut pile, or saxony. Each one wears, cleans, and shows footprints differently.
Jute or synthetic backing changes how the goods stretch, so we match the cushion to it.
Wool fiber has a natural crimp, so it springs back after a chair leg or a footstep instead of staying crushed. It takes dye deeply, which is why the color holds under sunlight better than most synthetics. It also holds soil near the tip of the yarn rather than deep in the pile, so vacuuming actually gets it out. That is the case for spending more on the fiber. Call +1 240 751 5542.
Blend percentage, twist level, face weight, and construction on real samples.
Tight twist for halls and stairs, softer saxony where feet land bare.
Roll width, pile direction, seam placement, and the extra yardage a pattern eats.
New pad, power stretched field, hot seams, then how to vacuum and blot it.
The crimp in the fiber recovers from crushing, so traffic paths and furniture dents fade instead of setting.
New wool releases short fibers for a few months. Vacuum often and it settles down on its own.
High heat and alkaline chemicals damage the fiber. Blot spills with cool water and a mild solution.
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Wool carpet is not one product. Some goods are pure wool. Many are blends, often around 80 percent wool with 20 percent nylon added for abrasion resistance in high-traffic rooms. The blend changes the price, the hand, and how the carpet holds up in a hallway, so get the percentage in writing before you buy.
Then look at twist level and face weight. Twist tells you how tightly the yarn is spun; tight twist stands up under traffic while loose yarn flattens into a visible path. Face weight tells you how many ounces of yarn are actually in the carpet. Together they predict wear far better than the word wool on a label. If several rooms are in play, residential carpet installation covers how to mix constructions sensibly.
New wool sheds. Short fibers left over from spinning work their way out of the pile, and they show up in the vacuum for a few months. It is not a defect and it does not thin the carpet. Vacuum regularly and it stops on its own. Cut pile sheds more than a tight loop.
Wool also takes dye deep into the fiber, so the color holds under strong window light better than many synthetics. And the natural crimp means furniture dents and traffic paths recover instead of setting permanently.
Wool is a good stair fiber. It bends over the nosing without grinning open at the back, and it recovers from the crushing that steps deliver. Choose a tight twist or a firm Berber loop over a deep saxony for a flight of stairs.
In the room, wool gets laid out like any broadloom: roll width, pile direction, seams placed out of the walkway, seam tape and iron, then a power stretcher to bring the field tight. Patterned wool needs match yardage on top; that math is on the patterned carpet installation page. For an early figure, use the flooring cost calculator.
No. Plenty of goods are blends, often 80 percent wool with 20 percent nylon for extra abrasion resistance. Blends usually hold up better in a busy hall, while pure wool feels and drapes better underfoot. We tell you the exact blend before you buy.
New wool sheds short fibers left over from spinning, most heavily in the first few months. It is normal and it stops. Vacuum regularly through that period and the loose fiber clears out. Loop constructions shed less than cut pile.
Yes, and it is one of the better fibers for it. Wool bends over the nosing without grinning, and the crimp resists the crushing that stairs deliver. Pick a tight twist or a firm loop rather than a deep saxony for a staircase.
Blot, do not rub, and work from the outside in with cool water and a wool-safe cleaner. Skip anything alkaline or bleach-based, and skip high-heat steam. Wool releases soil easily when you catch it early, which is why prompt blotting works so well.